Outdoors women wore cloaks, mantles or houppelande which was an outer garment with a long, full body and flaring sleeves worn by both men and women. Over the kirtle was worn cotehardie (fitted garment with hanging sleeves), tippet (fitted garment with long and narrow hanging sleeves) or tabard (sleeveless overgown). Women wore a loose or fitted gown (known as a cotte or kirtle) of ankle or floor-length with full skirts and trains for special occasions.
Over the shirt was worn a doublet, a close-fitting buttoned jacket of hip length and a gown or kirtle over doublet. Tunic or shirt previously worn with belt was replaced by short shirt and skirt with tight hose or chausses made of wool and often featuring leather soles. Men’s clothes in the 14th century became tighter and shorter. Medieval clothing in the 14th century already saw the emergence of recognizable fashion in clothing, while the use of buttons and lacing enabled easier dressing and undressing as well as more comfortable fitting of clothes. Women’s headdresses in the 12th and the 13th centuries also featured wimple and veil which were mostly worn by older women. Both barbette and coif were reduced to narrow strips of cloth by the end of the 13th century, while the hair was often confined into crespine or crespinette, a thick hairnet or snood. The “woman’s coif” that resembled a pillbox hat was the most popular headdress from the 12th to the 13th century. The 13th century headdress was notable for the barbette, a chin band to which were attached various types of hats. Women also continued to cover their hair. Over the dress was worn the cyclas or sleeveless surcoat. Women also wore hose and leather shoes, while their long dresses were loosely-fitted and had a narrow belt and tight sleeves. Men wore their hair in a “pageboy ” style, a straight hair to below the ear and slightly turned under.
Cyclas were either sleeveless with its sides sewn together making a long sleeveless tunic or with sleeves and hood resembling a cap-sleeved surcoat known as ganache or gardcorps. Men wore a tunic, cotte with a surcoat or the cyclas, a rectangular surcoat cut in one peace with a hole for the head. The 13th century saw change of clothing style only in wealthier classes, while male and female fashion was very similar. New in men’s clothing was also sleeveless surcoat worn as a protective covering for the armor, while wealthier classes worn shoes with pointed toes which represented a status symbol and were popular until the 15th century. Both men and women worn bliaut, a long outer tunic with full skirts from the hip and with sleeves that fitted closely from the shoulder to the elbow and then flared into a trumpet shape dropping nearly to floor-length. People began to dress according to their class and social status by the 12th century. The predominant clothing materials were wool and linen. Eventually women began to wear a loose shoulder cape, mantle or kerchief to cover their hair. Sometimes was also worn an under-tunic, and cloak or mantle during the winter. Women wore a simple sleeved tunic dress with a vertical slit and decorated borders and hems. The historical sources record that Charlemagne (768-814) dressed in Frankish style which was a mixture of Roman, Byzantine and Germanic styles: sleeved tunic, leggings which were held in place by long laces (cross-gartering), tighter-fitting hose and a cloak. The main clothing materials were cotton and linen.īyzantine influence on Western European clothing and fashion started to decline at the end of the 8th and beginning of the 9th century. Women’s clothes were ornamented with colorful borders or tablet-woven bands and fibulas (brooches), while both men and women could wear a superb jewelry. Women’s clothing in the Early Middle Ages was greatly influenced by the Byzantine style but it was eventually replaced by the Roman style. Men commonly wore short tunics with belts and visible trousers, hose or leggings and a cloak – animal leather or fur in winter. Little is known about clothing of the invading peoples before they reached Europe. The invasion of barbaric peoples in the Early Middle Ages resulted in the change of fashion and style of clothing.
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